It didn't take long at all to realize I wasn't going to do those routes over and over. for example, we set one route around a drop-knee, or a really gnarly match on a small hold, or setting holds to incorporate a couple heel-hooks. For example, routes with a purple tag may range anywhere from a V1-V3 while routes with a white tag could range from V6-V8. How is setting for a competition different than setting for regular day-to-day routes? I have a 12x10 wall. ET: I have set bouldering, routes and the occasional comp for a wall. Note about lead : Most points also apply there, but as there is just one route and … The competition was split into two, with bouldering in the morning and routes in the afternoon. Route setting – yes now and again. Setting for competitions, in my opinion, is all about the show. A resource manual for Bouldering Instructors for indoor climbing walls. Competition setting – yes yes yes. Setting comp routes is an experience base art and a kind of "shadow-competition", trying to get the perfect set of routes to the wall to cater the competitors and watchers needs. I love it. I set comps at White Spider every month and at other walls too. Our Bend location uses circuit grading which categorizes routes into ranges instead of using specific v-grades. R oute and boulder setting is a really difficult job to do at a high standard, and I don’t mean at hard grades, I mean to make great sequences for the climbers at all levels. It may need to be adapted to suit the individual facility - hence EXAMPLE ONLY. Boulder setting Route setting Competition setting Paraclimbing route/boulder setting. I gave up on having actual routes very quickly. have friends over and have fun with it, and always use sit starts if your wall is short - it buys you a couple extra moves pretty easily. When I got it done I bought tape and started setting routes. When I set, it is the creative side which takes the effort, obviously we have to be safe while working but once you do it for a while the access is second nature. EC: Boulder setting – yes most of the time. The standard used most widely today is the V Scale, named after John “Vermin” Sherman, who collaborated with his buddies to rate routes in the legendary Hueco Tanks bouldering area in Texas. The routes were actually fine, except for the weird scenario where all the climbers progressed to a final that was so easy that everyone flashed the route. Much like the climbing world, bouldering has evolved multiple rating systems. The moves should be crazy, the positions should be weird, and the routes should make people think about rock climbing in an “outside the box” type of way. The bouldering was a different story. Holds are very easy to move, and I've also started experimenting … Let me give you an example from a couple of weeks ago. Please note that this is a resource ONLY and is to be used in conjunction with a training and assessment conducted by a qualified Technical Adviser. Bouldering Ratings.

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