Find the proper fret position with the official Stewart-MacDonald Fret Calculator, Stewart-MacDonald is PCI compliant and validated for secure e-commerce. I don’t like inconsistency. Look for a gap under the string to see if you have an up-bow. Adjust the truss rod another 1/8 turn or less if necessary. With a properly functioning truss rod, you probably won’t need more than 1/8-turn in either direction to get what you’re after. Here’s how to evaluate and adjust your electric or acoustic neck with a minimum of tools. Whichever setup you prefer, a straight neck is a good starting point. However, in order to comply with privacy regulations, I also need you to provide consent to store and process the information you've entered. But in the Barclay article it states, "It is NOT a good idea to use the truss-rod to tweak the action," and "on all guitars, the action is adjusted at the BRIDGE." Let's talk about relief This’ll give you a good idea of the neck’s current state. Mark the adjusting nut to indicate your starting point, and to show how far the nut gets turned. After adjusting the rod I’ll usually let the instrument “settle” into the adjustment for a few hours and then I’ll evaluate it again and tweak it if necessary. Save on Over 900 Items. Players: it's no big deal! The side-effect is why this poor practice has perpetrated. Sight the neck to see what condition it’s in. Then play the instrument and adjust one, or both, to taste/feel. Whichever setup you prefer, a straight neck is a good starting point. The truss rod is component of a guitar or other stringed instruments that stabilizes the lengthwise forward curvature (also called relief), of the neck.Usually it is a steel bar or rod that runs inside the neck, beneath the fingerboard. Though I guess the picture above says the opposite. When you tighten your guitar truss rod by turning your truss rod adjusting screw/nut to the right/clockwise you remove relief/up-bow from the neck of the guitar, in other words the neck of the guitar comes closer to the strings on the guitar, which results in a lower string action. The order is important because adjusting the truss rod will affect the action at both the nut and the saddle. This way, you’ll know how smoothly the nut will turn, and you’ll have a better feel for it when you do your adjustments. MEMBERSHIP IS NOW AVAILABLE IN GERMANY! So naturally loosening your truss rod will create more bend, and tightening it will create a straighter neck. OK, now we tighten the truss rod and straighten that neck. Inconsistency is hard to work with for consistent results — the clue’s in the name. And under such tension your neck would either warp or snap rather quickly. This is why, in the 1980s, double-action truss rods began to be used widely. (Using muscle without first getting the feel of it is how some people manage to shear off their adjusting nut!). While I think my ranting above is a good way to consider approaching a setup, there is a certain amount of ‘interaction’ between the action and relief. Build the pedal that redefined overdrive. Also look for humps, low spots, uneven frets or other problems. Now that relief is set, we adjust action at the bridge/saddles and there is a ‘consistent’ change along the neck. The neck of most guitars has what’s known as a truss rod, which is a one- or two-piece adjustable metal rod that goes down the inside of the center of the neck. There will be a larger change in the middle of the truss rod’s length (not necessarily the exact middle of the neck) and the action towards the higher end of the neck may not change significantly, if at all. So it’s important to start with the truss rod (assuming it needs doing) and then if any more adjustment is needed then move onto the nut (assuming in needs doing) and then if any more adjustment is needed then move onto the saddle. Adjust the truss rod another 1/8 turn or less if necessary.

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